Tuesday, October 21, 2008

JAMES BOND 006 and a half IN TRAINING

first shots in Damascus


some interesting trucks about




Here I am back at work for two days and finally finding time to knock out a few words on the Syrian trips, it seems to have gone from autumn to winter while we were away, its so cold and dark now. The trip out was with Cyprus airways, not the best or worst but couldn't complain as they were helpful with wheelchair assistance at Manchester, Larnaca and even Damascus. Getting through immigration even with a visa wasn't easy, there were hundreds of Cypriots who had to purchase visas on arrival who were causing chaos, it took around an hour to get a Syrian official to take any interest in processing our passport, our introduction to their outlook on life. The transfer to the hotel was a little weird via a hired car and driver , a taxi would have been easier.
The Four Seasons at Damascus is a vast monolith of a building in the embassy quarter, a good area and very safe., our arrival was very late and we went straight to bed, next day was at leisure although I decided to make some forays in search of buses. My first run-in with the police was near the main bus station, I was hauled in and told it was forbidden to photograph anything in Syria, buses, cars or anything, me thinks he exaggerated a little but it wasn't far off the mark, progress filming would indeed by slow. I spent the afternoon at the pool side with Mandy, the service was great with constant top ups of juice, water, fruits and refreshing towels wipes etc, temp about top 80sF. Had a superb meal that evening with Aleppan cuisine in their star restaurant, still felt fine vat the stage and ready to start the tour the next day. Met our driver and guide. Mohammed was new to the job, doubt he had been outside Damascus before and the old Palestinian guide was full of chips on shoulder and gained most of his knowledge from an antique guide book published in the DRR in the 60s.
Maalula was our first stop outside the city, a mountain side village with a steep sided gorge and a couple of ancient churches , I sought relief in the tour coaches but still managed some pretence of interest although there was nothing particularly interesting other than the Aramaic language said to have been spoken by Christ, several areas of Syria are still Christian and seemed to liver in harmony. Everywhere there are pictures of the president who gave up his medical practise in the UK and returned to Syria with his English born wife taking up a military career after the death of his brother who was expected to exceed to the dictatorship when their father fell ill. In the event expectations that a western education may bring a lightening of attitudes fell short of hopes and it was same old same old. With around 97 % of the vote I wonder who the others voted for, there's only 1 party after all. Remember my hassles in Tunisia, now that’s another crap hole, well Syria had good roads, the better for rolling tanks along I expect and generally another Arab cess pit. The last stop en route on the Sunday was at the Crusaders castle Krak Des Chevalers, half was to Aleppo. A superb large castle set on a hill top overlooking Lebanon, our guide was at pains pointing out that we could see no tanks on the border. The castle was far to difficult for Mandy to climb and we trod each weary step brick by brick until I escaped and we headed north as dusk fell north to Aleppo. A great long hill would have made a fine photo spot for the interesting trucks but it was onwards, bloody onwards.

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